Feast for the senses... - Bac Ha market

6.00am: Arrived at Lao Cai, border with China, had to leave my smelly friend behind and find transport for the next visit point: the Bac Ha market.

Most people head off to SaPa, 40km west of Lao Cai on charted MiniVans or Hotel Van that pick up tourists. But it was Sunday. And Sunday means Sunday Market in Bac Ha, 40km east of Lao Cai, well worth to see. Most people go to SaPa and then arrive to the market in time controled little tours, which boders me a bit... Furthermore they arrive at 12pm when the market starts at 7am and thats the time when locals arrive. It was 6.30am and I didn’t really want to have to go 40km west (about 1h30m) and then make the way back, additional 80km (about 3hours journey), to arrive at 12pm. As everybody was leaving on the Minibuses to SaPa I found myself a bit lost and empty stomach looking for transport to Bac Ha. But there where no MiniBuses for travellers that would head east. Only option: the local bus!!

As we were getting closer more and more people would hop in with massive boxes and sacs full of goods to sell, including chicken.

Making their way to the market

Could there be a better place to have a rest..?

2 hours journey, met Sho Gi on the bus, the only foreign apart from me. Japanese, student of contemporany Art, a bit shy, travelling the world for 8 months, started in Asia. Arrived at Bac Ha, dropped the heavy luggage in a Hotel and both had a glorious breakfast: vietnamese coffee (damn strong baby!! It kicks in!!) and scrumbled eggs! Got to the market and each one went his own way.

Bac Ha hosts the biggest fair near the mountainous highlands and the Chinese border.

The Sunday Market attracks villagers from the minority peoples from the surrounding hill tribes: Flower Hmong, Dzao, Giay (Nhang), Han (Hoa), Xa Fang, Lachi, Nung, Phula, Thai and Thu lao.

The market was very crowded, local products for sale or barter are carried on horseback. Besides the usual items like pigs, cows, chickens, and ducks, the Bac Ha market sold dogs. As dogs were available as cuts of meat, they were also available live, right next to the live pigs, chickens, and other livestock.

Wow... This gentleman certainly knows how to play tetris!

Fish!! You choose, they chop it... alive! !! After cut in pieces the fish still moves! Mum, remember when we’d go to the Saturday Market to buy fish and veggies despite you know that I hated fish? This is the right place for you, you can’t get it any fresher than this..! Dad, translate her this...

Vietnamese home grown tobacco. People stop by to bong it away, some buy a bit, some just puff.

Yaman!!!

But...Oh no...

Food stalls

From above

People

What is for some may not be for others... Black Hmong Cosmethic Dentistry... with a touch of Gold! Sweet...

4 references of vietnam: lorry, moto, buffalo and President Ho Chi Min

By 2pm business was done and locals start to leave. Time to say goodbuy to Sho Gi and make the way to SaPa. Got on a MiniBus with 4 french and about 5 locals. The minibus capacity was 9 and we were 10 already. But that didn't stop them to jam more people in on the way. At some point I counted 16... and a pig! It's fine, its part of the experience... I was satisfied for the day. So lent back and enjoied the view...